Square head nuts will be counter sunk. No harsh chemicals, detergents, abrasive pads or steel wool should be used. Be sure to match the color of the wood dough to the stain color.
Adequate hold down support must be installed. Allow the glue to dry over night. Secure the tray assembly to the legs with wood screws K. A flat washer I should separate each leg latch assembly and leg. Allow 24 hours for the finish to dry sufficiently. Now, you are ready to fill it, stick an ear of corn on the perch, and watch the birds out your window as they feed.
The locks for the drawers should be installed prior to connecting the drawer fronts Q onto the drawer fronts P. If not, most companies that do duplicating can make the enlargements required for the pattern. This will be sanded smooth but still retain the saw marks. Allow stain to dry 6 hours and then repeat with a second coat. Square head nuts will not be counter sunk. Joint one edge of each board.
Before nailing the drawer backs in place slip the drawer bottoms S into the grooves provided. Use bar clamps to clamp the leg braces in place between the legs. Brass will add a more contemporary touch and a clear coat will be applied to prevent tarnishing.
Product should not be stored in a damp area such as garage or basement or any out building should not be stored vertically against a wall or other building material against it. Use a brush to apply a clear finish coat such as Varathane, Polyurethane, lacquer, etc.
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Only our standard tops that we stock in house. Place glue on the ends of the center vertical frame and the exposed portion of the dowel pins and tap the upper horizontal frames G onto it. Place glue on the ends of the upper horizontal frames and the exposed dowel pins and tap the upper vertical frames F into position.
Allow to dry 24 hours for the finish to dry. Screw a brass hook onto one end of each wooden leg latch. The easel can be made two mahogany boards: Use a band saw to cut out the areas for the barrel slots. Use a radial arm saw and a table saw to cut the lower sides B and the lower top C to their respective sizes.
Use a spindle sander to smooth out the slots.
Installation- Things to consider Depending on which solid wood counter you are installing, whether it's a counter made from solid wood boards that are glued up side by side made from new or reclaimed lumber or wood slabs cut from a log or tree it is natural for a wood counter to expand and contract during weather and humidity changes.
Your counter will come with a 3 month workmanship warranty which includes glue joints, improperly sanded surfaces, and unsightly touch-up. From the rounded end, on each leg, measure 74".
Hand sand all edges, and details, with grit sandpaper. We advise every one of our customers to inspect their counter when being delivered. Glue and nail the top and bottom crown moldings TUand V in their respective positions on the upper and lower cabinet assemblies Glue and nail the front and side moldings W and X in their respective positions.
Place glue in the ends of the upper horizontal frames and tap dowel pins into them.
Scale the upper door frames N to the sizes specified in the materials list. Our lead times for custom tops can vary from weeks depending upon work loads. Finish sand with an orbital sander and grit sandpaper. Lightly hand sand finish with grit sandpaper. Cut the vertical door frames Mand the horizontal door frames O to their respective sizes.
The steel will add a more vintage or industrial look and a clear coat will be applied to prevent oxidation.